It’s now been 3 months since I was last surfing and I miss it! I am not saying it has been bad. December was nice with Christmas, family, friends, presents and everything. However, November was dull and January was even more so!
I therefore dream myself away to Bali or Fiji, sun and surf. I dream about the feeling I get when walking down to the beach barefoot, looking out on the waves, checking the swell, deciding on a spot to enter, putting sunscreen on, attaching the leg rope and running out into the water with my board under my arm.
The feeling of paddling out, duck diving the waves, paddling some more and finally reaching the lineup. Sitting there chatting with your mates about trivial stuff and problems – that are suddenly quite important – starting to gather courage enough to go for the first wave.
To go for the first wave – paddling – but being too slow and therefore missing it.
To go for the second wave – paddling as fast as possible – standing up, catching it, feeling awesome, doing a cutback and another one, spraying your mates and ending the wave in a fabulous Kelly Slater-way.
I miss the feeling of paddling to the beach after an awesome session, sitting on the beach drinking a Bintang, watching the sunset, talking about the waves you caught and how big they were.
And then I wake up – looking out the window realizing the winter is still storming outside!
I am so ready for summer!